07 Apr Sicily beyond the obvious
I first came to Sicily a very, very long time ago.
It was 2012 and, like most people visiting the island for the first time, I based myself in Catania and moved around using buses. Back then I didn’t rent a car. I just followed the obvious route — Catania, Ragusa, Ortigia, Taormina, Palermo — trying to see as much as possible in a relatively short time.
More than 12 years later, I came back.
This time, things were different.
I stayed longer, slowed things down and, maybe most importantly, I explored Sicily in a completely different way. I rented a car – something that changes everything on this island – and I was lucky enough to get one I had wanted for a long time: a convertible Fiat 500.
Again, I chose Catania as my base. I found an apartment that I can honestly recommend to anyone and I’ll write a separate article about it because it deserves it.
From there, I started exploring.
Catania — chaos, noise and something that keeps pulling you back
Catania felt a bit different compared to how I remembered it. Maybe a bit more crowded. Maybe a bit dirtier. Louder. There were moments when the city felt completely packed — I arrived during a period of markets and local fairs and entire streets were just full of people, moving slowly, almost chaotically.
But that’s also part of it.
Because beyond all that, Catania still has something that’s hard to explain. Sicily in general has it, but here you feel it immediately.
It’s not a beautiful city in the classic sense. It’s rough, sometimes messy, sometimes overwhelming. But it has a kind of energy that stays with you. And somehow, even with all its imperfections, it makes you want to come back. Not necessarily to discover something new. But to repeat things. To eat a pizza in a place you already know. To walk again through the same streets. To spend an afternoon in Villa Bellini, doing absolutely nothing.
Taormina – touristy, yes… but also impossible to ignore
The first trip I went on, on the very first day, was to Taormina.
I really wanted my fiancée to see it.
We arrived early in the morning — which, if you plan to come here, is probably the best decision you can make. I managed to find parking about 700–800 meters from the entrance to the town, in a designated parking area, and from there we just walked in.
Now, I already know what most people will say about Taormina.
It has a mixed vibe.
On one side, it’s very touristy. More polished, more curated, different from the rest of Sicily. It doesn’t have that raw, slightly chaotic feeling you get in places like Catania.
But at the same time I think this is the personality of Taormina.
From the main square, with the view opening towards the sea, to the ancient theatre where Etna quietly sits in the background, Taormina feels genuinely special.
The narrow streets, the stairs, the small details – drawings, signs, terraces, tables, little shops – everything feels arranged in a way that shouldn’t work but somehow does.
And then there are the lemons. Everywhere.
Lemons, oranges, colors, textures — all of it building that very specific Sicilian postcard that, even if you try to resist, pulls you in.
It’s one of those places I’ve now visited twice. And I already know I’ll go back again.
What stayed with me the most in Taormina wasn’t just the views.
It was the contrast.
If you walk through the town early in the morning — before the shops are fully open or right at that moment when everything slowly starts coming to life — it feels almost empty. Quiet. Calm. You hear your steps, you notice details, you see the place.
And then, a couple of hours later, everything changes.
Tourists start pouring in. The streets fill up. The noise builds. The same places that felt almost intimate suddenly became crowded, louder, more chaotic.
And somehow, both versions are part of the experience.
There were a few moments when we simply stopped. Sat on a bench. Had a cannolo. Drank a coffee. Did nothing.
And Sicily feels made exactly for that.
For slowing down. For disconnecting. For those small pauses where nothing important happens, but somehow those are the moments you remember the most.
If I had to define it in a few words, I’d say this. Sicily might be one of the best places in Europe for dolce far niente.
After finishing with Taormina, we went down to the sea.
There’s that small island – or more like a tiny peninsula (Isola Bella) – where you can walk down and reach a rocky beach just below the town.
And that’s exactly what we did. We just sat there, on the stones, doing nothing, enjoying the sun.
I forgot to mention — this was April. And the weather was perfect.
Warm enough to stay in a T-shirt, warm enough to sit by the sea, but without that heavy summer heat that makes everything slower and more exhausting.
So, on the very first day in Sicily, after walking through Taormina, we ended up at the beach.
No plan. No rush. Just sitting there, in the sun, letting the day pass.
And in a way, that set the tone for everything that followed.
Marzamemi — the quiet surprise I didn’t expect
The next day we decided to go somewhere I hadn’t seen on my first trip to Sicily.
Marzamemi.
I didn’t really know what to expect. I had only seen a few photos — my fiancée had looked it up and suggested we go — so we just left early in the morning and decided to try something new.
And the first feeling I had when we arrived was unexpected.
It didn’t feel like Sicily. It felt like Greece.
We got there very early. I think there were maybe one or two places open, and no more than 10–15 people in the entire village. So, we just walked.
Through all the small stone streets, past the old houses, around the little square — almost completely alone.
And that changed everything.
Because when a place is empty, you don’t just pass through it. You see it.
We had the time to look at every corner, every wall, every small detail. No noise, no rush, no distractions.
Just us and the place.
One thing that surprised me in Sicily …Even though I love ice cream — and Sicily is one of the best places for it — I probably ate less gelato here than anywhere else in Italy.
Instead, we focused on cannoli. And other Sicilian desserts.
For some reason, that just felt more… right.
After Marzamemi, we didn’t really have a plan.
We just opened Google Maps, looked at what beaches were on the way back to Catania and decided to stop wherever it felt right.
We dropped the roof of the Fiat 500 and started driving.
Beach after beach. Stopping. Sitting. Taking a few personal photos. Getting back in the car. Driving again.
No rush. No schedule. Just moving slowly along the coast.
And if I had to describe that day in one sentence, it would be this: It was one of those perfect days where you do almost nothing… but somehow it feels like everything.
A day where you completely switch off.
Mount Etna — a completely different Sicily
The last time I had been to Sicily, Etna erupted just one or two days after I left. I missed it. And back then, I didn’t even go up the volcano.
This time, I wasn’t going to miss it again.
We drove all the way up as far as you can go by car, and from there we took the cable car higher, into a completely different world.
And that’s the best way I can describe it.
A different world.
Black volcanic ash everywhere, mixed with patches of snow. A semi-frozen landscape that felt almost unreal. The weather was heavy, cloudy, with moments when the sun would break through for just a few seconds, lighting everything in a very dramatic way.
It couldn’t have been more different from the previous days.
From beaches and warm sun… to cold wind, ash and silence.
We walked through that landscape along with other people who had come to see the volcano, but even with others around, it still felt isolated. Raw. Almost untouched.
When we came back down, we spent more time around the craters. Walking slowly, circling them, looking at the textures, the shapes, the colors.
And then, at some point, you look down. And you see the villages. The sea. Everything far below you.
And that contrast hits you again.
From black volcanic ash under your feet…to the blue of the Mediterranean in the distance.
It was, without exaggeration, one of the most impressive days of the trip.
Aci Trezza — back to life
After coming down from Etna, we decided to take a different road back. And somewhere along the way, we stopped in Aci Trezza. It felt like stepping into a completely different world again.
We parked right near the harbor, walked along the promenade, looked out towards the sea and the famous rocks rising from the water, and just let the day continue at a slower pace.
After the silence of the volcano, this was the opposite. People everywhere. Terraces full. Noise, conversations, movement.
We sat down, ordered something to eat, had an Aperol and just watched everything around us.
And that contrast, from cold wind and ash on Etna to warm light, people and sea level life made the whole day feel complete.
The weather had also changed. The sun started breaking through the clouds again, the light became softer, warmer, and everything suddenly felt more relaxed.
It wasn’t a place we had planned as something important.
But it ended up being exactly what we needed in that moment.
Noto — where Sicily becomes grand
The next stop on our journey was Noto.
I hadn’t visited it on my previous trip, but it had stayed somewhere in the back of my mind. That feeling that I had missed something important.
Back then, I was traveling by bus. I had reached Ragusa, and from there getting to Noto would have meant complicating things — more connections, more time, more effort.
So I skipped it.
This time, with a car, there was no excuse.
Noto became one of those places I knew I had to see.
And it didn’t disappoint.
The first thing that hits you is the scale. The baroque architecture, the massive buildings, the open spaces — everything feels bigger, more structured, more deliberate.
After days of small villages, narrow streets, beaches and raw landscapes, Noto feels completely different.
It feels… grand. Not in a loud or overwhelming way, but in a very controlled, almost elegant way. You walk through the main street and suddenly you understand something about Sicily that you might have missed before.
That beyond chaos, beyond imperfections, there is also this layer of refinement. Of history. Of power.
For me, Noto was one of the biggest surprises of the trip. A very strong contrast to everything else we had seen. And one of those places that, honestly, everyone should experience at least once.
Noto is also the place where I had the best cannolo of my life.
And that’s not just me saying it. My fiancée confirmed it… and then asked me to go back and get another one.
But it wasn’t just the cannolo. It was also the granita. Simple, fresh, incredibly good -especially after walking through the city in the sun.
And again, it wasn’t about the place itself. It was about the moment. Sitting on a bench. Doing nothing. Watching people pass by. Eating something that has been part of Sicilian culture for generations.
That combination…City, food, silence, time slowing down. That’s Sicily at its best.
Ragusa & Modica
I had visited Ragusa on my previous trip and ever since then I had this constant feeling that I needed to go back.
And now I did.
Ragusa might be one of my favorite places in Sicily. I can’t really explain why. But from the very first moment I stepped there, something just clicked.
There are places you understand. And there are places you feel.
Ragusa is the second type.
I think what I loved most about Ragusa was that descent.
We left the car somewhere above and then just started walking down.
Step by step. Past the cathedral. Down the stairs. Towards the town. Towards Giardino Ibleo.
To be honest, I’m not even sure my fiancée liked Ragusa as much as I did. But for me, it’s one of those places I would go back to without thinking twice.
And it’s a place I would recommend to anyone who wants to understand Sicily, not just see it.
Modica was the second part of the day. And again, we had no real plan.
We admired the cathedral, the wide stairs in front of it, people sitting there, resting, talking, doing nothing. We stopped at a terrace. Walked through the streets. And, of course, bought chocolate.
For us… and for home.
Modica is beautiful. It’s calm, it’s pleasant, it has that typical Sicilian charm. But if I had to choose between the two…I would pick Ragusa every single time.
Valley of the Temples — a different kind of memory
The Valley of the Temples was a day trip I had always wanted to do.
I never managed to get there on my first visit, and I always felt like I had missed something important.
This time, I didn’t.
Part of the reason this place mattered to me is personal. My grandfather was an archaeologist. And somehow, walking through these ruins, I couldn’t help but think about him. About the Roman sites he used to explore back in Romania.
It’s an impressive place. Full of history. Full of weight.
The kind of place that makes you stop for a second and realize that what you’re seeing has been there for thousands of years.
But at the same time, it’s different from the rest of Sicily. This is not a place you come back to repeatedly, like Catania or Taormina.
It’s something else.
There are places you return to because they feel good. And there are places you visit because they remind you of something bigger.
Of history. Of time passing. Of how small everything else suddenly feels.
And the Valley of the Temples is one of those places.
Montalbano & Scala dei Turchi
Towards the end of the trip, we had one last relaxed day. A day with no expectations. We went to Casa di Montalbano and then to Scala dei Turchi — places I had discovered online, mostly through social media.
And this is where I’ll be honest. Not everything in Sicily is something you need to go back to repeatedly.
At Casa di Montalbano, there’s a beautiful balcony overlooking the sea. It’s nice. It’s worth a quick stop if you’re already in the area.
But that’s about it.
As for Scala dei Turchi, I know it’s famous. I know it looks great in photos. But personally, I don’t think it’s worth going out of your way just to see it.
And that’s fine.
Because not every place has to be unforgettable. Some are just small stops along the way.
To be fair, I did enjoy Scala dei Turchi. We spent some time there, sitting in the sun, enjoying the weather, doing nothing.
And it was nice.
But it worked because of the context.
We had already seen a lot. We only had one place left on our list. We were tired. And instead of trying to fit in something else, we just chose to slow down.
And for that, Scala dei Turchi was perfect.
But if you’re coming to Sicily for the first time, with limited time… I don’t think this should be a priority.
Yes, it’s spectacular.
But getting there can be unpredictable — access can be restricted, roads can be closed, and depending on timing, it can get crowded.
We were lucky. When we visited, there was literally no one on those white steps.
But that’s not always the case.
So, for me, it’s this: An interesting stop. A beautiful place. But not essential. And if I were to redo this trip with less time, I would probably use that day differently.
But in that moment…Tired, relaxed, sitting in the sun…It was exactly what we needed.
Ortigia — the place you keep for last
I always leave Ortigia for last. I had been here before — in 2012, and again in 2024.
And every time, it felt just as good.
This time, though, the weather made all the difference. Clear sky. Warm sun. That perfect kind of light that makes everything feel slower and easier. We even spent a bit of time by the water, just sitting there, enjoying it.
We walked through the main square, had a freshly made panini, and then just wandered. Up and down the peninsula. No direction. No plan. Just walking.
And maybe that’s what Ortigia does best. It doesn’t overwhelm you. It doesn’t try too hard.
It just gives you space to slow down.
And after everything – Etna, Ragusa, Noto, long drives, full days – that’s exactly what you need.
We left the car in one of the closest parking areas near the entrance to Ortigia. From there, it was about a 500–600 meter walk before actually stepping into the old town. And almost immediately, you feel the change.
Ortigia is, without a doubt, one of my favorite places in Sicily.
The atmosphere. The light. The way everything just feels… easy.
We sat at a café, enjoying the sun, having a coffee.
Later, we grabbed fresh sandwiches from the market and just continued walking.
What I liked most, though, was the balance.
The square was alive — full of people, movement, energy. But as you go deeper into the streets, everything starts to quiet down. The crowds fade.
And suddenly, you find yourself walking alone on small streets, with nothing but the sound of your own steps.
And that contrast…That’s what makes Ortigia special.
What about Palermo?
A lot of people will probably ask about Palermo.I visited it back in 2012 and I remember it as one of the most fascinating cities in Sicily.
This time, though, we chose to focus only on the eastern and southern parts of the island.
Places like Catania, Ortigia, Noto, Ragusa.
And we made a conscious decision to leave the north — Palermo, Cefalù, Erice — for a separate trip.
Because on paper, Sicily doesn’t look that big. But it’s different when you are there.
Driving takes time. A lot of roads are single lane. Traffic can get heavy. Speed limits are lower. And sometimes things feel a bit… chaotic.
So even if distances don’t seem huge, travel times add up quickly.
And if you try to see everything in one trip, you’ll end up spending more time in the car than experiencing the places.
For me, splitting Sicily into multiple trips makes much more sense.
And honestly…It gives you a reason to come back.
In the end
And maybe the best part of writing this article came now.
In a period that’s been extremely busy, without traveling for a while, this was the first time I really went back there. Not physically. But mentally.
Because writing this made me remember everything in a very real way.
The light. The streets. The silence. The small moments. Those moments when time almost felt like it stopped.
Sitting at a small table — metal or plastic, it didn’t matter — under the Sicilian sun.
Having an espresso. Eating a cannolo. Doing nothing.
And somehow…missing that.
What’s next
Like with all my trips, this is just the beginning. This article is more about how Sicily feels.
In the next ones, I’ll go deeper.
I’ll cover the food — and Sicily has some of the best I’ve had anywhere. I’ll go through all the places we tried (and hopefully not forget any of them).
I’ll write about the apartment we stayed in — one that I can honestly recommend without hesitation.
I’ll also put together a 7-day Sicily itinerary, focused only on the southern and eastern part of the island. I want to make that clear from the start, so expectations are set properly.
And I’ll go through the practical side as well:
• how easy it is to drive in Sicily
• what to expect from the roads
• how to organize your trip
• where to fly
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